Sunday, March 29, 2009

Short Roof Shingling

I've got the shingling finished on the short roof over the kitchen. This was an easy job because of the low slope on this roof section.

The Building Code requires that the area over the eaves has a strip of ice and water shield applied before the shingles are installed. The ice and water shield is a peel n' stick membrane that adheres to the roof sheathing and also seals itself around the nails when you install the shingles. The type I'm using is called Resisto Lastobond Sanded Finish.

Normally you would install the ice and water shield over the eaves only, and then use roofing felt for the rest of the roof. However, because this section of roof is small, I used the ice and water shield over the the whole section. Some builders are using this technique for entire roofs now; but it does add to the cost.

Here you can see that I've extended the ice and water shield up the wall a few inches. I will install an L-shaped metal flashing here called an apron flashing. The house wrap and siding will come down over top of the apron flashing. That will keep the rain and snow where it belongs; on the outside of the house.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Sealing Around The Wall Plug

The temporary wall plug I installed previously needs to be sealed to the permanent wall. This is done with spray-foam; kind of like "styrofoam-in-a-can". The foam is sprayed into the gap between the studs of the permanent wall and the temporary wall plug.

When I built the wall plug, I purposely built it so that it didn't fit too snugly. The foam sealant works best if it has a slight gap to fill. In this case I have about a 1/8" - 3/16". If the studs fit too close together, the foam can't get in-between them very well.

There is a straw-like nozzle on the can so that you can direct the foam deep into the gap, rather than just on the surface of the gap. Once the foam is sprayed in, it expands to seal everything up... protecting against both water and air infiltration. When the foam hardens after a couple of hours, you can just trim the excess away with a knife or small saw.

The red circle on the photo below shows the area that's detailed in the following photos.

As the foam hardens, it expands to fill the gap. The foam that expands outwards will just be trimmed off.

This is after the excess foam has been trimmed off.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Dormer Progress

Slight progress on the dormer. Lookout rafters and soffit framing done on one side.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Dormer Roof Framing

I'm doing the framing for where the roofline of the dormer meets the main roofline, and I've found that the angles get a bit tricky here. The photos below show where I have to put a framing member to support the roof sheathing where the two rooflines meet. (I've got a chalkline strung between the two endpoints, but in the photos it dissappeared against the sky, so I've drawn a line on the photos to show where the chalkline is.)

To figure out what angle I need to cut, I hold a speed-square up to the chalkline and see where the string is. Here you can see it's at 55 degrees. Now, because this is 55 degrees from vertical, I need to cut the end of the framing members at 35 degrees (35 + 55 = 90), because when I'm cutting the lumber, I'm cutting it from along the horizontal plane.

The framing members are made of two 2x6's back to back. As well as the ends being angled, the tops are bevelled to form a V-shape so that the edges of the roof sheathing of the two rooflines have a solid base for nailing.

The finished product. Everything fits.

Monday, March 16, 2009

When The Smart Thing To Do... Isn't

I'm continuing to work on the roof trusses for the dormer I've been building. The roof truss on the end of the dormer also forms the front gable above the window. When I built the last dormer, I installed the end roof truss, and then put the plywood sheathing on afterwards. This time I thought I would be smarter and put the plywood sheathing on first... before I put the truss up. While I was at it, I thought I'd install the Tyvek house wrap at the same time. By doing that work ahead of time, I'd have one less awkward job to do up on top of a ladder later.

Here's the sheathed and wrapped gable truss.

The truss isn't terribly heavy... about 70 lbs... but it's awkward to move.... particularly because the rafter tails are wider than the space I'm trying to manueuver it in. I got it half way up the wall and wedged it solid in between the side walls. I couldn't move it up and I couldn't move it down. One of the problems with having it sheathed and wrapped is that there's less places to hold on to, and also the housewrap is also very slippery. This is definitely one of those times when an extra pair of hands would have made all the difference.

I finally set up my winch and pulley system and was able to lift it from the top and pry it from underneath to get it un-stuck. However, I finally gave up trying to get it up to the top. It just wasn't going to happen that day.

So, I went back to the way I did the last one... I just put the bare gable truss up. I'll sheath it later. Getting the bare truss up to the top was a piece of cake. In fact, I put that truss up, as well as the two remaining inside trusses and had them all nailed into place in less than half the time I spent trying to get the sheathed truss up.

Friday, March 13, 2009

Dormer #2

Today I started work on the dormer on the back side of the house. I've got the window wall and the two side walls (the "cheeks") done, as well as the first couple of trusses installed.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Wall Plug In Place

The opening in the outside wall on the upstairs level is for a doorway that will lead into the a master bedroom over a future attached garage. All I'm doing for now is filling that hole with a small section of framed wall; as a "plug". The structural support for the opening is already built into the outside wall, so when I get around to building the garage and master bedroom, I can simply remove that plug and replace it with a set of French doors.

That end of the house doesn't have any permanent windows because the garage will be built there. I hadn't originally planned on putting a window in the plug, but I found a good deal on a window at a clearance centre so I decided to put one in. It breaks up the solid expanse of the end wall and adds extra light to the loft area.

I built the wall section on the floor and then tilted it up and slid it into place. I've screwed it to the surrounding wall structure rather than nailing it. That way, when it comes time to remove it, I can just remove the screws... much easier than trying to pull nails out. I'll caulk around the wall section on the outside before the housewrap goes on, and on the inside before the drywall goes on.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Finishing Up The Wall Sheathing

I've finally got the sheathing done on the west gable wall. Now I can build the "plug" for the hole for the doorway into the future master bedroom.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

More Wall Sheathing

I'm making good progress on sheathing the west gable wall. Another day and I should be done. I can tell already that the very top piece is going to be a tough one though. I'm not quite sure how I'm going to get up there to work.

Sunday, March 1, 2009

West Gable Wall Sheathing

Today I set up some scaffolding and began sheathing the west gable wall. I hoisted the sheets of plywood up with a winch and cable and then nailed them to the 2x6 studs. The most time consuming part of the task is setting up the scaffolding. Installing the sheathing itself doesn't take very long to do.