Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Dormer Shingling

I've finished shingling the first dormer at the front of the house. I'm using a closed valley style of shingling. You can see in the photo below that the shingles come off the dormer roof and run up the main roof. The shingles on the main roof will be installed over top of these shingles and then trimmed off at the valley. It'll make more sense in a few days when I have photos of the finished product.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Trimming The Roof Sheathing

When I first started putting up the roof sheathing, I tried to cut the sheets so that they all lined up evenly on the gable end of the roof. It proved to be an exercise in futility because if the trusses don't line up exactly right, or the sheets get out of square a little bit... and sometimes they did... then you end up with an uneven edge. I finally gave up and just let the edges run wild at the end. Then, once the sheathing was finished, I would just trim them off.

Here you can see that the roof edge is uneven. I've run a chalk-line from top to bottom and I'll use a circular saw to trim the edges. Note that the chalk-line isn't where the cut-line will be, it's where the edge of the saw rides. If I'd have put the chalk-line where I wanted to cut, I'd have had to lean out and look up over the top of the saw to see the line. This way was just safer considering where I'm working.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Mrs. Necessity Pays A Visit

A bundle of shingles weighs just over 60 lbs. Some guys can hoist a bundle up on their shoulder and then hike up a ladder to the roof. Not me; I'm not built for that. I have to split the bundle in two and then carry them up loose. It's a pain because once they're unwrapped they flop around too much.

So, I came up with another way to get them up there. I threw together a little sled that I can winch up the ladder. It works great! I've tried it with two bundles at a time, but everything creaks and groans too much, and it was difficult to unload them at the top, so I've just been bringing them up one bundle at a time. It's no faster than splitting the bundle and carrying them up, but much easier... and safer.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Finishing Up The Chimney Support

Now that I've finished sheathing the roof, I can finish off the chimney support. I used a hand-held grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut it off just above the roof surface.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Roof Sheathing Finished

I've finished sheathing the roof on the front side of the house. Shingling will be next!

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Chimney Support Installation

I'm putting a wood stove in the house and I want to have the chimney installed through the roof before I do the shingling.

The chimney is supported by a metal box that hangs below the bottom of the roof trusses and protrudes out through the top of the roof sheathing. The actual chimney itself sits inside the metal box.

The Building Code specifies that there be a space between the chimney and any combustible material. When using a metal support box like this, a 1" space is required. Without a metal support box, a 2" space is required.

To determine exactly where the chimney had to go, I first had to figure out where the wood stove will sit. That too is goverened by clearances that must be maintained between the stove and any combustible material.

Once I had the exact stove location determined, I marked the spot on the floor where the centre of the chimney outlet on the stove will be. Then I hung a string-line from the roof trusses, and moved it around until it hung directly over top the mark on the floor. That gave me the location of the center of the chimney, and I determined where to put the chimney support box based on that.

The bottom of the support box is attached to the roof trusses by metal brackets which adjust to the space between the roof trusses. At the top, I framed around the support box, and then used another type of metal bracket to attach the support box to the framing.

Once the roof sheathing is complete, I'll cut off the top of the support box flush with the roof. The chimney flashing will then cover everything up.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Finishing Up The Framing For The Roof

I've been finishing up the roof framing details.... the short trusses above the last dormer and the last of the lookout rafters.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Last Dormer Sheathing Done

The last dormer is finished except for the front wall... which I've left open so I can have easy access to the roof.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Last Dormer Progress

I've been making slow but steady progress on the last dormer. I've found that the small framing details... like the eaves... and the area where the dormer roof meets the main roof... take as long to do as framing the whole dormer did. A good example of the 80-20 rule.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Installing The End Roof Truss In The Dormer

When I built the first dormer on the back of the house, I installed the end truss before I sheathed it and housewrapped it. It was easy to put up the truss, but difficult to sheath and wrap it; just because of the height off the ground.

For the next dormer, I thought I'd be smart and install the plywood sheathing and housewrap on the truss before I installed the truss. Good idea, but I found impossible to get the truss up on top of the walls. It was just too awkward and heavy and the housewrap was too slippery.

For this dormer, I came up with yet another idea. I first hoisted the truss up on top of the cheek walls and just let it hang upside down.

Then I lifted it up flat and balanced it on top of the end wall while I nailed on the plywood sheathing.

Then I let it hang back upside down again and I installed the housewrap.

Once all that was done it was simple to flip it up on top of the end wall and clamp a brace on it.

All trusses up and framing done... ready for sheathing.

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Last Dormer Underway

Here we go... the last dormer.

Friday, June 5, 2009

Scaffolding For Last Dormer

I've got the scaffolding set up now so that I can start work on the other dormer at the front of the house.