Thursday, March 24, 2011

Installing Soffits

As I'm moving along with the siding, I'm also installing the soffits as I go.  The soffits are what covers the underside of the eaves.  Like the siding I'm using, they are made of vinyl.  I'm using the perforated variety as they allow for free air movement up into the roof cavity.

The soffits are held in place by placing one end into a vinyl channel (called an F-channel) that's screwed to the wall underneath the inside of the eave, and by nailing the other end to the underside of the fascia board on the outside of the eave.

The soffit panels are interlocking in a way similar to that of the vinyl siding.  Once you install one piece, the next piece hooks around the edge of the previous piece.

The finished product.

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Siding Finished on the Front

I've finished up the siding on the front of the house... almost.  There is still a partial row to go up at the top once the soffits are installed.

Saturday, March 12, 2011

Flashing for an Outdoor Light Fixture Box

I've discovered some plastic flashing blocks that work great for protecting outdoor electrical boxes from getting water inside them.  It's a two-piece unit... once piece goes over top the electrical box before the siding goes on... and the second piece goes on after the siding is installed.

This is the electrical box for the outside light at the front door.

Here's the back half of the flashing block.  It just slips over top the protruding edge of the electrical box.

Now the siding goes on.

Now the front half of the flashing block slips on overtop and outside of the back half.

Once the light fixture is installed, the electrical box is well protected from getting wet inside.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Window Drip Caps

One of the things that building inspectors are fussy about is the flashing ... or drip cap...  that goes above the windows.  The purpose of the drip cap is to force water out and away from the top of the window; or more specifically, away from the joint where the top of the window meets the wall.  Here, the building code requires that the drip caps also have end dams to prevent water from running down the side of a window as well. 

The drip cap stock comes preformed in 10' or 12' lengths in either aluminum or vinyl.  I'm using vinyl because I could get it in the same color as my corner posts and soffits.  That's the easy part.  The hard part is making the end dams.

Here's the drip cap stock as it comes from the lumber yard.

I begin my making two cuts 3/4" from the end; one in the front lip, and one in the back.  I use tin snips to cut it.

Next, I clamp a small piece of thin plywood on each side of the flat part of the drip cap... with the edge of the plywood lined up with the cuts I made.  Now I heat up the end with my heat gun.

After 30 - 45 seconds with the heat gun, the vinyl becomes very pliable.  I bend the end upwards to almost a 90 degree angle, tucking the vertical flap around behind the back.  The edge of the plywood helps me get a nice clean bend.

This is looking at the bottom side.

The next step is to put some silicone sealant between the flap and the back of the drip cap, and then clamp them together.

Next, I put in a couple of rivets to hold the flap and the back together; and lastly I trim off the lip and round off the top corner on the end.  Now I have a finished end dam.  To finish the drip cap, I just cut it to length and then repeat on the process on the other end.

Here's the completed drip cap in place.  The front lip of the drip cap protrudes past the trim by about 3/8".  That protrusion forces water to drip away from the surface of the trim; thereby helping to prevent water from getting behind the trim by capillary action.  


Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Trim and Siding Progress

I've finished up the trim around the front windows and got a bit more siding up.  I'm quite happy with the way it's shaping up overall, except for the window trim around the octagonal window.

I wanted to keep the same style of trim around all the windows, but the trim around the octagonal windows doesn't look quite right... too heavy on the top perhaps.  I'll just have to learn to live with it though, because I'm not changing it now.